Manicured History: North American Nail Adornments
Have you ever wondered when manicures became so popular or if people have always taken care of their nails? Or how about when press on nails started to be worn? I hope to answer some of your questions about that with this short essay. This text will explore a brief history with a focus on North America, from past to present day.
Nail care dates back to as early as Ancient Babylonia around 3200 BC. Exploring Royal Babylonian tombs has yielded solid gold nail care implements for hands and feet. It is said that ancient Babylonian warriors would manicure their nails before battle, using kohl to darken them. Nail care and colouring continued to become more popular through the ages, and around 206 BC of the Han Dynasty in ancient China nail guards were produced for royalty to protect their long nails and symbolize their wealth.
In North America nail care has been documented and undocumented beginning largely with Indigenous culture. Through some archeological digs there have been tools found for scraping and polishing nails. This body decoration was part of grooming as well as ceremonial traditions.
The European influence spread to North American during the Colonial era. In the 1600s our North American nails were reflections of the European which included clean and well kept nails. It was considered and associated with wealth and refinement to have manicured nails, despite the actual concept of a manicure to not be known yet. Nails would be neat and buffed to a shine using powders or creams, but not often painted.
Shortly after the first known commercial nail salon opened in Paris, during the 1870s, a manicure salon opened in New York. Mary E. Cobb had studied nail care in France and her nailcare was a fashionable service for upper-class women. Her company known as "Mrs. Pray's Manicure" also sold nail products and kits.
When the 1920s arrived nail polish had become widely available thanks to an innovation in automotive paint. The company Cutex launched in 1911 and released liquid nail polish in 1917. It became a common household name and by the 1930s, from influence of Hollywood film stars like Jean Harlow and Rita Hayworth, polished nails were becoming very popular. A manicure known as the "moon manicure" surfaced on nails, featuring a bare moon at the base and painted tips. The most fashionable shades were considered red, pink and coral and around major cities nail salons were beginning to appear to rival and compliment the home manicures.
Not to be left out, middle-class women became regular nail fanatics more regularly around the 1950's. Nail salons had spread and services included cuticle trimming, buffing and polish application as standard. It was in 1954 that the important discovery of acrylic nails was accidentally surfaced while Dr Fred Slack was using dental acrylic to fix a broken nail. The feminist movement of the 1960s and 70s proved to both reject manicures as symbols of conformity, and embrace them as self-expression. The beauty practices were on the verge of a boom and nail enhancements were becoming more popular too with the concept of "instant" nails being adhered with glue. The pre shaped plastic nails were only adding to nail care popularity and accessibility.
When the 80's arrived it brought an explosion of acrylic nails, nail extensions and bold nail art across fingertips in North America. Throughout the 1980's and 1990's hip hop culture and Black beauty trends were highly influential with airbrushed nails, rhinestones and vivid colours gaining traction. Nail salons had become more accessible and widespread and were largely revolutionized by Vietnamese immigrants as a result of actress Tippi Hedren's outreach of teaching nail skills to immigrants in the 1970s. Lee Press-On Nails began in the early 1980s too when Lee Pharmaceuticals launched the first major brand of ready-to-wear, self adhesive nails. The pre-painted nails typically had French tips or solid pastel shades and were heavily advertised on TV with a jingle "Lee Press-On Nails, beautiful nails...instantly!". As acrylic and gel manicures were growing in popularity in the 1990's, press-ons became associated with drugstore beauty and teen experimentation.
In today's era the North American manicure industry produces multi-billions of dollars. Nail salons play a key economic role in many communities and manicures have evolved from luxury to everyday and are used as a form of personal expression and identity. Nail products have been developed such as gel nails, dip powder and hybrid polishes like Shellac and are industry standards for long-lasting manicures. Social media helps popularize nail art as a fashion statement, and influencers and celebrities showcase often their designs, which can be quite elaborate and ornate. Nail care culture is even more inclusive, men and non-binary individuals embrace nail polish and nail art too! And the rise of DIY nail kits and their online tutorials are easier accessible.
Even press-on nails have had many improvements in adhesive technology, materials more flexible and nail sizing to make them more durable and realistic. The press-on community has evolved into a platform for nail art featuring holographic effects, intricate patterns, designer collaborations and hand-painted or 3D nail options by independent artists on Etsy, Ecommerce sites and social media. To boost their prestige, even celebrity influence from celebs like Cardi B, Megan Thee Stallion and Lizzo wear custom press-ons made by nail artists. During the pandemic surge, due to salon closures, a massive spike in DIY nail trends turned people toward press-ons as a safe and convenient way to maintain their nail aesthetics at home.
It is no surprise that the self expression offered through today's modern nail care is here to stay, and I hope this brief history has been an interesting essay to review. Even if it's a new form of self care for you, or you are experienced at the nail arts, there is something for everyone to help them take care of their nails!